Make this deliciously meaty meal for your dad

Short ribs are nothing short of delicious, and when I cook them, I usually make more than we can eat at a single meal. This means that I always look for ways to use the full-flavored leftovers — and as with most braised foods, short ribs taste better the next day — and so I was excited when I spiced up the beef and then wrapped it in flour tortillas. This is a terrific appetizer and also a wonderful snack or quick lunch. You can tame the spiciness to suit your family’s tastes.

In a medium skillet, melt the butter over medium-high heat. When hot, add the onion, bell pepper, scallions, chipotle peppers, red pepper flakes, paprika, salt, and black pepper. Cook, stirring, until the vegetables begin to soften and are fragrant, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and set aside to cool slightly.

In a large bowl, mix together the shredded beef, cheeses, and the cooled vegetable mixture. Spoon equal portions of the filling on one half of each tortilla. Fold the tortillas in half and brush each side with the oil.

Put the folded tortillas, in batches, in a heated panini press or countertop grill, close the lid, and cook until heated through and the cheese melts, about 3 minutes. (Alternatively, melt about 1 1/2 tablespoons of unsalted butter in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter melts, put 2 tortillas in the pan, lower the heat to medium, and cook until the filling is hot, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Repeat with the remaining 6 quesadillas, in batches.)

Cut each quesadilla into 4 wedges and serve.

Short ribs take a long time to cook. The long, slow cooking, or braising, is all about breaking down the meat’s fibers so that it is fall-off-the-bone tender and can simmer for hours in its own juicy, succulent fat. You find short ribs in upscale restaurants now, although a decade or two ago they were a cut that didn’t get much love. You can buy bone-in or boneless ribs. I prefer the latter because then I don’t have to worry about the bones and the tendons, and the meat cooks a little more quickly — although it still needs that nice, slow braising. This recipe makes far more than you will need for the Spicy Beef Quesadillas on page 22, but the short ribs are so delicious that it’s worth making a little extra. Plus, it’s tricky to braise short ribs in small amounts. The cooked and cooled ribs freeze well for up to a month.

What We Eat-Friends: Pepperoncini Beef Sandwiches

Sliced provolone cheese (for sandwiches)

Heat oil in a pot or high-sided skillet over high heat. While the oil is heating, combine the salt and pepper and rub it into the meat. Add more if necessary. When the oil is hot, sear the roast on all sides so the outsides of it is browned and a little crispy. Transfer the roast to a slow cooker and add the minced garlic and the entire jar of pepperoncinis. If possible, cook on high until the liquid comes to a boil and then turn it to low and cook until the roast shreds easily with a fork, for a total cooking time of about 6-8 hours. If not possible, cook on low for 8-10 hours or until the beef is fork tender.

For sandwiches, slice the rolls and spread lightly with mayonnaise and then top with the shredded beef. Add a slice of provolone cheese and then place under the broiler for 1-3 minutes or until the bread is toasted and the cheese is melted. Serve immediately. Makes 12 large sandwiches.

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